MINI RAMP TRANSITION RADIUS PROFESSIONAL

3/16” thick) whereas the majority of our competitors use a schedule 5 or 10 which is similar to the thickness of fence post.

Our coping is a schedule 40 galvanized steel (the walls are approx.

We feel every mini ramp should always have 3 layers!

All Keen Ramps Mini Half Pipes come standard with 2 layers of plywood underneath the surfacing whereas our competitors have an upcharge to “make the ramp stronger”.

We are confident that our ramps provide a better ride, grind, launch, air, etc.

MINI RAMP TRANSITION RADIUS PROFESSIONAL

Each obstacle’s design has been tested by professional and amateur level skateboarders as well as by our founder (Cory Keen) who has been an avid skater for over 20 years. We’ve experimented with multiple transition radiuses, materials, rib spacing, attachment points, and so on. Fun as hell though.Overall we feel that the specifications of our ramps are much more fine-tuned in comparison to our competitors. Joined: Posts: 5478 Location: Pleasant Hill, CA A clean ramp is a grippy ramp.! So, the Coke thing works on two fronts: Gets rid of the dust, and leaves the sticky sheen on the ramp. This also gets rid of all that pesky masonite dust quite nicely, as well. Mopping the ramp with straight water to get rid of stick is definitely not advisable, and doesn't work particularly well in any rate (as the Coke absorbs into the masonite, which is part of the reason that it's so effective). But, if you make it too sticky right away, it's awfully hard to un-do. Plus: You can always mop it again, to make it stickier. Too much water/Coke, and you'll damage the masonite, and it will flake. I wring the mop out, so it's just barely damp, and mop the ramp. I use about a 50/50 dilution (a 2-liter of Coke, with 2 liters of water). But, tempered masonite can get mighty slippery, regardless of the temperature. The cold shouldn't affect the grip of the ramp. Use every bit of that 11'6' that you can.! Wider is better, y'know. If it were my garage, I'd build the ramp from wall to wall, width-wise. Thus, my ramp stood a true 3' 2.75' tall (from the floor, to the top of the coping). It may have only saved a couple of inches, but, those couple of inches can make or break a ramp in such a confined space. I cut the templates short, to match the flatbottom frame. To do this, I laid my 2x4's down flat (instead of standing upright) when I built the framework for the flatbottom. My ramp was built to be as short as possible, while still being a true 3' tall (from the top layer of the flat, to the top of the coping). If you used the same 2' platforms, that should just about fit into your garage. It was fun.īut, if I had the project to do again, I'd use 5 1/2'-6' trannies, and 9'-10' of flat, as my ramp was kinda steep (because of the small trannies), and uber-super fast from coping to coping. It had 4 1/2' trannies, 8' of flat, 2' platforms. I built a 3' high, 14' wide mini in my old warehouse, for personal use. Maceman, here's a few tips for ya, based on personal experience. Joined: Posts: 2053 Location: Phoenix, AZ I did 6ft transitions and it is pretty mellow. it is 2ft tall x 8ft wide and is 26ft end to end. I think 3' might be the height limit here as linc says, else i will be needing waivers signed If it were possible, I would do that in a flash to get the ramp to 4'. #2 The garage is ashphalt unfortunately, so i can't dig down, but that was a very very good idea. If so, will cold temps affect the masonite surface, even when covered by a roof? Will the coke idea really work to fix that? Our winter this year has been spring, but that is not to say Jan/Feb/Mar won't be freezing.

#1, Will winter affect the riding surface? I never thought of that. Two things of interests that you guys brought out here. I think lincs dims are pretty much what i was thinking, except i might try to push the width right to the sides(i.e. Joined: Posts: 1139 Location: Hamilton, Ontario You might want to make sure you can stand up on on a grind and adjust the ramp height accordingly. The ramp is 2 1/2 feet high (plus some bricks to raise the whole ramp) the ceiling, so I can't stand on a grind without banging my hands or head into the ceiling. My basement ceiling is about 7 ft, if you include the joists hanging down.

That might be good for some, but if I did it over again, I would mellow out the transition and add more flat. I feel like I'm skating the shallow end of a pool. The flat is 4 ft, the transitions are 5 feet. I ignored what I read on (a very good site) and tried to go 'aggressive' with the geometry. I have a ramp in my basement - 8 ft wide, 2 1/2 feet tall, 16 ft long, which includes 18' decks.

Mini ramp transition radius